Sunday, July 20, 2008

Blueprints Of Sand Rails

Karibu

Lamu an island on the coast of Kenya near the Somali border (north of Mombasa and Malindi). It is a culmination of Swahili culture. I spent two weeks in early July. We thus arrive by sea at Lamu airport is located on the neighboring island, Manda Island, just opposite. The crossing takes about 15 minutes, a little more for the nearby village of Shela, where I lived. The city (or village I do not know) is classified as world heritage by UNESCO. Because of its architecture and also its cultural importance on the Swahili coast (like Zanzibar and Pemba). The people are generally of African descent and mixed Arabic. For example, my landlord told me that his family was of Yemeni origin. The predominant religion is Islam (rather strict adherence) and there are mosques everywhere. More often used in conversation in Arabic expressions (as salam alekoum, Choukran, etc..). Much of the houses are built in Lamu coral blocks (mined and cut at Manda) and date from the 18th century. The floors are supported by pieces of wood from the nearby mangroves and is often observed on the walls of the elaborately decorated plaster. Many of these houses courtyards with fountains in the Arab mind. A particular feature of the architecture of Lamu is makuti, a sort of open room roof, protected by a palm roof pavilion. Almost all hotels are makuti, we generally find the dining room and sitting area. This is where the sea breeze is most noticeable. As it is rather hot and humid much of the year, this area is very popular.
doors are another distinctive Swahili architecture (as in Zanzibar). Their framework (Header and jambs) is cleverly crafted and often studded wings. It is wandering the streets we discover with amazement the details of each of these openings. And the entrance of the old houses often has a kind of masonry porch with benches. Moreover, we find these called baraza benches around the city. We often see the men take the air and comment on news of the day. Another important feature of Lamu is the lack of cars. In fact the streets are too narrow to allow this kind of traffic (the city dating back over two centuries). Transportation is rather with donkeys which are used all over the island for people and goods. There are about 3,000 donkeys on the island. We see them everywhere. It exists even in Lamu a "donkey sanctuary" or collected the sick or injured animals (sanctuary funded by a foundation course UK). transport of heavier loads and over a greater distance, is done with dhows, the traditional sailing Latin Swahili coast. One can observe a continuous traffic of ships in the channel between Lamu Manda. In closing here is a picture of the local cemetery, located on the outskirts Lamu, with charming waterers for birds.

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